Good grazing is one of the most valuable things a horse owner can have. It feeds your horses, gives them room to move and keeps feed bills down. It also needs regular work, and in the North East the timing of that work matters more than in most of England.
This guide goes through the year season by season. Treat it as a framework rather than a fixed calendar, because soil, drainage and stocking vary from one yard to the next. For anything to do with your horses’ health, such as worming or laminitis, speak to your vet.
Why does pasture management differ in the North East?
Grass in the North East usually starts growing later in spring and slows down earlier in autumn than it does further south. Winters are long and often wet, and some parts of the region have heavy clay soils that drain slowly. Exposed sites in Northumberland and the Durham dales also catch more wind and frost.
These conditions lead to three common problems:
- Poaching. Hooves churn wet ground into mud, especially around gateways, troughs and hay feeders.
- A short window for fieldwork. Harrowing, rolling and reseeding all need firm ground, and dry spells can be brief.
- Less grass in summer. Heavy winter damage leaves fewer good fields just when horses need them most.
The answer is to plan ahead. Protect the land in winter, move quickly when conditions allow in spring, and rest fields so they can recover.
What should you do in your paddocks in spring?
Spring, roughly March to May, is the busiest time of year in the fields. There is a lot to fit in once the ground starts to dry out.
Check the damage from winter
Walk every field and make notes. Look for bare patches, poached areas, broken fencing, blocked drains and molehills. A simple field map with these marked on it makes it much easier to plan the work and brief contractors.
Test the soil
A soil test every three to four years shows the pH and the main nutrient levels. It tells you whether lime or fertiliser is needed and stops you spending money on products the land does not need. Horse pasture generally needs a lighter touch than grass grown for cattle or silage, because very rich grass does not suit most horses.
Harrow, roll and overseed
Once the ground can take machinery without damage, harrow to pull out dead grass and spread molehills. Then roll to firm the surface and level out hoof prints. Overseed bare patches with a seed mix made for horse paddocks, ideally before weeds move into the gaps.
Watch the spring grass
Fast spring growth can be high in sugar. Horses and ponies prone to laminitis or weight gain may need shorter turnout, a grazing muzzle or a smaller paddock. Agree a plan with your vet before the grass comes through.
How do you keep grazing healthy through the summer?
From June to August, horses spend more time out, so the aim is to keep the grass productive and safe.
Pick up droppings regularly
Removing droppings at least twice a week cuts the number of worm larvae on the pasture. It also stops horses creating “roughs”, long ungrazed areas around dung, and “lawns”, patches grazed down to the soil. Regular poo picking supports the worm control plan you agree with your vet.
Top and rotate fields
Topping cuts rank grass and weeds before they set seed and encourages even regrowth. Moving horses between fields gives each one a few weeks’ rest, which lets the grass recover and helps break the worm life cycle.
Deal with ragwort
Ragwort is poisonous to horses, both fresh and dried in hay. Pull it before it flowers and seeds, wearing gloves and removing as much of the root as you can. Take pulled plants off the field and dispose of them safely, as they stay toxic while they wilt.
Check water and shelter
Troughs should be clean and reliable, especially in hot weather. Horses also need somewhere to get out of the sun and away from flies, such as a field shelter or a line of trees.
What needs doing in autumn?
Autumn, from September to November, is your chance to get the land ready for winter and set up next year’s grazing.
- Overseed or reseed while the soil is still warm and moist. Early September is often a reliable window in the North East.
- Watch out for sycamore. Sycamore seeds and seedlings are linked to atypical myopathy, a serious and often fatal muscle disease in horses. Find out where sycamore trees are on and around your land, and fence off or clear affected areas, particularly in autumn and spring.
- Reduce stocking as grass growth slows, and start feeding hay or haylage before horses run short.
- Choose your winter fields. Decide which paddocks will be used, which will be rested and whether you need a surfaced turnout area.
- Fix drainage and gateways before the wettest months arrive.
How can you protect your land over winter?
Winter work is mostly about protecting the fields you will need next spring.
Limit poaching
Move hay feeders regularly so no single spot gets churned up. Lay hardcore, rubber matting or ground grids at gateways and around troughs. On the wettest days, shorter turnout or a surfaced area may be kinder to the land.
Use a sacrifice paddock
A sacrifice paddock is a small area that takes the wear in winter so the rest of your grazing can rest. Choose a field that drains well and is easy to reach, and plan to repair it in spring.
Look after water and fencing
Lag exposed pipes and have a plan for breaking ice on troughs. After storms, walk the fence lines and check for fallen branches and loose rails.
Plan for next year
Winter is a good time to book contractors for spring, order seed and fertiliser, and look back at last year’s soil results and field notes.
How do you build a 12-month grazing plan?
The best-run yards do not wait for problems to appear. They work to a simple written plan that everyone on the yard can follow.
What to record for each field
- Its size, soil type, drainage and any known wet or bare areas
- How it will be used each season: grazing, resting, winter turnout or hay
- Planned jobs and target months, such as soil testing, harrowing, overseeding and topping
- Stocking levels and rotation dates
- Weed priorities and hazards such as sycamore trees or other poisonous plants
How much land does a horse need?
A common rule of thumb is around 1 to 1.5 acres per horse for full-time grazing, with extra forage in winter. On heavy northern soils or exposed sites you may need more. Your soil, the quality of the grass and the time horses spend stabled all make a difference.
Would you like a plan for your land? Our pasture and paddock management service starts with a field-by-field assessment and ends with a practical 12-month programme that we can carry out for you.
